Monday, August 13, 2012

Done / Not Done

I am done! ... with phase one. Not including extra pieces and thrown out pieces and ripped out seams, I have cut 2,025 pieces of fabric and sewn 1,736 seams of pieces to be included in the quilt. I have 64 large triple squares plus four in reserve. I have 96 small triple squares plus a large number in reserve because they were absolute hell to sew correctly. I have 144 diamond plus about 20 in reserve.

Now it is time to assemble the blocks. I am / am not looking forward to it. I want to get done and the steps will get progressively easier. OTOH, I know my sewing skills on the individual parts were not what they need to be. Seams wander. Allowances vary. Assembly is not going to be a piece of cake. Getting everything straight and even is going to be a challenge.

Sew, what have I learned to this point?

  • Rotary cutting. My cutting technique has improved.
  • My sewing has improved and my seams are straighter. 
  • My ability to place pieces at the center is better. A pinch fold is all it needs.
  • Even 1/32" (0.8 mm) in variance in a cut or fabric placement will throw the seam off by nearly 1/4" as it multiplies its effects when pieces are added.
  • After breaking seven needles, I know pins need to be removed as you sew. (Slow learner.)
  • A broken thread means the needle needs replacement. (VERY slow learner.)
  • Go slow, be careful, and never take your eye off the seam.
  • Chaining pieces together is the best way to speed up the process.
  • Clean and oil regularly. 30 hours slips by fast.
  • Buy enough fabric because you will NEVER match 'Royal' blue in any store at any time.
  • Triangles for the second square are cut on the bias and the outer set  needs to be cut with the angle on the bias to make the square stable.
  • Diamonds are cut on the bias so the outer triangles can be square with the grain.
  • White thread beats blue thread.
  • Most of the rumors about Coats & Clark threads are hooey.
  • Books show pin heads on the fabric but the flat 'flowers' make great handles for keeping fabric straight if you pin with the heads out in space.
  • I now have a pin cushion that stays put when I stick a pin into it or pull one out without looking. I may sell this idea.
  • At my age, my eyes need LOTS of light.
  • All jobs have an end point.
Now ... On to Assembly!

Tuesday, August 7, 2012


Perfection / Production

    Several years back, a friend designed and stitched a piece of crewelwork taken from a Japanese wood block print. In varied shades of blues and whites, the Pearl Dragon strode over the crashing seas.
It was simply magnificent. For one thing, it was a fabulous design. It was also large – about 11x14. It was built using some twenty-five or thirty unique stitch patterns, each appropriate to its use. Some I recognized. Some were extremely complex. It took about 18 months of constant work to design and stitch.
Because my friend was a novice at crewelwork, and didn’t want to submit it right away to a national contest, the Pearl Dragon entered the Western New York State Fair. It was expected by all who saw it to take the blue ribbon for the category and, quite possibly, Best in Show.
   
     My friend was present for the judging and felt crushed when the ribbon hung on the Pearl Dragon was the green one, an Honorable Mention. A judge was approached and, in a nice way, my friend asked how it happened that the Pearl Dragon merited Honorable Mention while an intricate but traditional piece took the blue?

     “Let me show you,” the judge responded. “We have over thirty entries and they are all excellent. The first cut eliminates the kits and the copycats. The second eliminates those that show poor design or workmanship. Here, that left us four or five that made the cut. The blue ribbon went to a piece that showed good and thoughtful design, exceptional workmanship, and a high degree of difficulty.”

     “Didn’t the Pearl Dragon meet those criteria?” my friend asked.

     “Here,” the judge responded. Removing the Pearl Dragon from its frame, the judge turned it over to expose the back. The back was perfection, as beautiful as the front. All knots had been carefully hidden. “See this?” the judge asked, pointing to one stitch among the several thousand making up the Pearl Dragon. The wool was twisted in an odd way, showing the single dropped and uncorrected stitch.

     “We have to decide somehow.”
.....
     This story comes to mind because I am working diligently on my Storm at Sea quilt. It will never be seen in any contest. I see all its flaws. I know every design compromise, every crooked seam, every flaw. There are even flaws I don’t know about – wrong choices, wrong techniques, color shifts where I ran out of material and the dye lots wouldn’t match up.

     No wonder girls and young women had to take a long apprenticeship under Mother’s tutelage so they could sew properly. Isn’t it amazing we novice quilters get anything done? The pressure to produce meets the pressure to meet a high standard. Is there any perfection in quilting? How is quilters’ work judged? Here is the best I could do based on several web sites. I was going to mark my own shortcomings, but...why bother?

4 judging elements: 

Presentation. Technique. Workmanship. Design.

        Presentation:
          Is the quilt “Show Ready”. Not just sleeves for hanging and good pressing. Pet hair, lint, stains, and odors count. Be sure to bury all threads and none are left dangling. 

          For the most part, like quilts are judged against each other in their respective categories. It is important to read the rules carefully and enter your quilt in the correct category.

Technique:
Pay attention to the basics of construction and do the absolute best that you can. What-ever technique you chose it should the best workmanship that you can achieve. Again no dangling threads, appliqué should be well stitched with invisible stitches. Pieced blocks should have points not cut off or into the seam allowance.

         Workmanship: 
o   Overall look of the quilt and the impact it has on viewers is very important.
o    General construction – piecing, applique, even borders
o   Does it hang straight? Are the edges straight and plumb?
o   Does the quilt lie flat?
o   Do the borders wave?
o   Seam allowance precision is examined.
o   Are points cut off or lost into seam allowance?
o   Embellishments adhered correctly and secure?
o   Quilting details, regardless of what type of quilting (Hand, domestic or long-arm.) More and more shows are judging the quilting against the same type of quilts – hand against hand, domestic against domestic and long arm against long arm. The judges realize different skill sets are required for the different types of quilting.
ü  Is it consistent type of quilting used?
ü  Does the stitch in the ditch come out of the ditch?
ü  Are the stitches even, standard in size and shape?
ü  Was the quilting by an individual, a group or professional long arm quilter. (Credit must show whoever did the quilting.)
o   Hand quilting
ü  Are stitches even size on front and back of quilt?
ü  Are  starts and stops invisible?
ü  Are quilt marking lines invisible?
o   Machine Quilting (domestic or long armed)
ü  Stitches of even length?
ü  No tension problems – bobbin thread should not show on top and top thread should not show on back.
ü  Starts and stops not visible.
ü  Are there thread dots on back of quilt.
ü  Expertise of the back tracks.
ü  Thread nests are especially frowned upon.
o   Binding is especially important.
ü  Are the threads hanging?
ü  Are there missed stitches or gaps in the stitching?
ü  Are there any parts where the binding is empty or weak?
ü  Are the corners sewn closed on top and bottom?
ü  Is the size of the binding uniform?
ü  Is there any pulling to the back to cover the stitches attaching the binding?
ü  Invisible stitches attach the binding to the quilt, covered by the binding.
ü  No batting should be poking through.
            Design: 
o   Visual impact of the design – the quilt must be visible across the room! It needs to be eye-catching
o   Originality and creativity
o   Color and value
o   Balance and integration of design of quilt components including borders:
ü  Scale
ü  Relationship
ü  Arrangement
o   Level of difficulty
o   Special techniques (if applicable)
o   Quilting design appropriate to quilt top, density of quilting consistent
o   Art Quilts are judged on their merits.
o   There are more shows being established just for the art quilts. The impact of the design, the artistic expression, composition and all the rules of art are most important for these quilts. That said, technique is still considered to be important part of the judging of these quilts.
YIKES!

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Gear Head Path to Fame / Infamy


Who are the minimalists? No one I know! Everyone I know accumulates toys…and making quilts requires LOTS of toys! I used to think toys were a ‘guy thing’ but quilting brings out the women collectors.

     First, there’s the machine. I have three, but this is not unusual. Last summer, several women I know got new machines, some of them running up into the five-figure mark – and I am not counting places right of the decimal. Popular machines now include the Bernina 830LE at $12,999 less $500 in their current promotion (not to be confused with my Bernina 830 Record.) Its street price is about $10,000 so act fast.

      You might cheap out and get a  Husqvarna Viking Diamond  at $9,500, a Janome MC11000 Special Edition or a Brother Innov-is Duetta 4500D at about $8,000,  etc. Every brand has some machine in the stratosphere. Practicality says you shouldn’t pay more for the machine than you will net in sold goods in the first 12 months, but there’s always that big gun factor. If you pay enough, you will be automatically good at quilting / embroidering / sewing / tailoring / upholstering. This is a fallacy toward which I am definitely inclined. I own an assault rifle, a utility rifle, and a good handgun, translating machinery into weapons for my quilting adventure.

Walking Foot
Once you acquire the machine that will make you a great fabric artist, and once you discover you are NOT a great fabric artist, the explanation lies in the accessories. Acquiring more accessories will make you great. Sewing machine manufacturers are happy to oblige. Bernina managed to develop a proprietary system. Its advantage is that Bernina feet help prevent mistakes by dictating thread weight, fabric weight, tension settings, and limit you to appropriate stitch patterns. All this (nonsense) cost big bucks. Bernina feet for an electronic machine all run up from $50. A simple zipper foot costs $18. A walking foot, which quilters really do need, is a mere $180+. Hey! It WALKS!

Rotary Cutter & Self-Healing Cutting Board
     Then you need rulers. Not just any ruler! There are precision instruments and you’ll need four or five, an investment of $100 or more. You need scissors and not just cheap WallyWorld tools. These cost $30-$100. You need little ones, medium ones, and big ones. Also, get rotary cutters costing about $35 a pop. Buy three sizes. Get two cutting boards,  large and small, for the rotary cutters; $100+. Special sewing needles come in about 18 or 20 sizes and configurations, including jeans, piercing, ball point, embroidery, #14, #15, double, triple, etc., etc. Pressing cloths; special markers; pins in four or five sizes and styles; special lighting if you need it; special irons and ironing boards costing way more than you thought possible; sewing boxes and storage; it all ads up. Go all the way and remodel that bonus room into an atelier studio. 

Finding you are not yet a world renowned fabric artist / quilter, (not even locally famous), despite owning several expensive machines and every accessory you can cram into your house or apartment, the blame clearly lies in your limited fabric selection. If you have more fabric it will inspire you to greatness. Fabric is a bottomless money pit. Buy only what you need for the quilt you are working on. I have barely enough to fill two large size dressers. Well, you never know when a particular orange batik print will be needed. And you thought this was all about scraps of fabric? Where do you think scraps come from? Half-yard pieces from the fabric shop at about $12/yard!

More delaying. Must! Go! CUT! SEW!!

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Intertia / Inspiration

It helps to see the work of others isn't quite up to perfection standards. It allows forward movement on your own work. I've been hard at work on the Storm at Sea quilt and am also in the middle of designing a quilt for Daughter #2. She wants an art quilt in blues and terra cotta.

Issue #1: What is "terra cotta"? She seems to see at as tile-roof-orange while others see it as an orange-y oche and others class it as warm tan. Well, she's the 'customer' so for her, it's earthy orange.

This allows a lot of pattern variation but...
Issue #2: Design it as blocks or on-point? Here are the two alternative designs in color-flow status -- just squint to see the color balance.

Issue #3: Size. These are set up to have a dark border and end up about 5'x8'. But she is thinking the space will only hold a 4'x8'. That's not a particularly attractive V : H ratio.

Did Gainsborough have these problems with his commissions?
This is more dynamic. It moves...


Monday, June 4, 2012

Confidence / Process

Well, I got eleven small triple squares done and they more or less match the pattern. It's hard to say exactly what happened to change things but here are some of the things that may have helped:


A lot of the process changed in the move from South Carolina to Bend, OR. The machine changed. This old Bernina is easy to use. It seems to sew straight without a lot of adjusting.


I changed pins. I was using silk pins which are small and don't leave a big hole. Here, I have flower pins. They are a lot longer. Maybe that helps. I changed the ruler I use. I created a small test pattern just for this square instead of the whole 12" block. I changed threads from cotton to polyester. I suppose that's a no-no in quilting cotton fabrics but the finer thread works better. When confidence lags, change everything and approach the problem 


Beautiful Design for
a Storm at Sea Quilt
I suppose the thing that really changed was my confidence. I remarked to a friend that I was having trouble with a Storm at Sea pattern. She brought out her Storm at Sea, the first quilt she had ever made. I could see its faults but it did come together. She convinced me that my small glitches could all be overcome.


Tomorrow, I will begin cutting for the large triple squares and see whether my fabric estimates were good. If not, I can include a compass or a cross. The compass is traditional when the quilt is for sailors going to sea, to bring them home. The cross is traditional for those lost at sea. Her Storm at Sea had a heart because her heart belongs to a sailor. Gotta love this pattern.

Friday, June 1, 2012

Inspiration / Production


Fabric is a true inspiration. I take it out, sort it, look at it, dream little quilt daydreams, and carefully put it away again.  I await the amazing bolt of inspiration that will drive me relentlessly to design, cut, piece, finish, and quilt the MOST EXQUISITE  QUILT ever seen on the face of the earth!


Surely there exists some combination of color and pattern that will burst the bonds of mundane chores like repairing the sprinkler system or cleaning the bathroom. I remain hopeful that some texture, some combination, will lead me on to fame and fortune as a fabric artist.

If the fabrics fail me, there are always the threads. Metallic, embroidery, colors that blend, colors that stand out – surely these will inspire me!

If the threads fail, there are the embellishments! A little gimp might be the key to the greatest quilt ever. Maybe some shredded satin? Perhaps some beads? Buttons? Studs? How about those paste jewels? Sequins? I am a sucker for glitter!

The more of these I acquire the closer I move to fame and fortune. Well, maybe just fame. Maybe notoriety? Maybe…nothing. Sad realization. I need to sew a LOT of blocks and my wife wants another quilt this summer.

Stop talking. Stop writing. Start PRODUCING! Sew those seams! Make them even! Check every one!

Quilt Machinery Trials


I am blessed / cursed by owning three sewing machines. (Well, technically, one is my wife’s but I use it most.)

Brother CS6000i
I started quilting when we were at our Bend, Oregon house. Needing a machine, I went to WallyWorld and lucked out. They had, for just $160, a Brother CS6000i
(the ‘i’ screams h
i-tech).
     This machine is wonderful! It has 60 stitches and tons of features. I especially like the touch control that does away with the foot pedal. It came with lots of feet and accessories. Very complete. Very light. Downside? It has plastic parts, can’t be oiled or affordably serviced. It is a throw-away machine but a great one for occasional sewing. It’s maybe a 3-quilt machine before it quits. Maybe 5?


Bernina Artista 170
We left the CS6000i in Bend when we returned to South Carolina. Waiting there was my wife’s virtually unused Bernina Artista 170, a little $4,000+ number fully justifying every tube of paint, sable brush, piece of canvas, and tool I have ever bought. It came ‘naked’ and had to have all kinds of accessories, an embroidery attachment, and this and that. OK. I encouraged her, but it was a guilt thing over my high bills for art supplies. Not to mention the camera(s)…or the computer(s). And that name, “Artista”, makes it seem all worthwhile, doesn't it. I am an Artista!

The Artista, for all its hundreds of stitches and LED screen, had never worked right. The bobbin thread would be fine and then, suddenly, not fine. I lost about two months of quilting time while I tried to get it to work and finally took it in to the shop. The head was bent -- maybe an encounter with upholstery fabric, maybe not. $200! Now you see why buying 25 of the Brother CS6000i machines for less than the Bernina 170 Artista might make sense. Just toss it and haul the next one out of storage -- but what to do with all those extra feet that come with each machine?

Bernina 830 Record
I planned to leave the Bernina behind in South Carolina and use the Brother in Oregon. Shipping was big $$$'s and the chance of another $200 repair bill was high. Then, about a week before our coastal displacement, at an estate sale in Bend, my older daughter scored a Bernina 830 Record worth about $600 on eBay and paid just $75! Not only did she get the machine; she got a very nice sewing table with it, all the feet and accessories, the manual, and lots of threads, bobbins, and notions. The only things missing are the red carrying case, the knee lift for the sewing foot, and the folding table.  If you have those, talk to me!

I oiled it up and away it went! I think the previous owner must have put no more than 20 hours on it and most of that was in class. I found her(?) class projects in a plastic bag in one of the drawers and realized that most of the notions and fabrics were from the classes. Amazing find! Thank you sweet daughter! This makes up for a few forgotten gifts and you are forgiven for the next five years from all gifting.

Blessing..or curse? Now I have to learn three machines, their foibles, their sewing abilities, their maintenance needs, their storage demands. An embarrassment of riches and more demands on my sewing time.

I really am dissembling. GO! NOW! CUT FABRIC! Sew  better seams! Work!

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Quilting Approach / Avoidance

I have finished one quilt, a 40x40 New York Beauty. It turned out well -- C for execution and B for design. I titled it Georgia On My Mind because the sunflowers reminded me of South Carolina, where I live half the year. "South Carolina On My Mind" sounded ridiculous so...
I did finish a second quilt, Rain of Jewels,  but I don't count it because I didn't accomplish what I set out to do. This was supposed to be much less structured. Also, the technique I developed for doing the jewels didn't work the way I wanted it to. I need to rethink this one. Let's call it an experiment, not a quilt.



I did learn a lot from these two.  I learned paper piecing, a technique I'll use again. I am working on the design for a black and white quilt based on New York Beauty. 


I learned about quilting technique. 'Georgia' is not properly quilted. The density if too variable and some quilting opportunities for embellishment were missed. And I learned to miter edges and binding corners.


I learned about applique. 'Rain' is not properly appliqued, that's for sure. I used up every decorative stitch on my machine and lots of satin stitching. I also learned I do not like applique so I won't be attempting another in the foreseeable future.


I learned about choosing fabric. Cheap is cheap. The white in 'Rain' and the pale yellow in 'Georgia' are both C H E A P and look it. From now on, I buy only the good stuff.


Now I am working on a pieced quilt, a Storm at Sea pattern for a queen-sized bed. I was supposed to show it at the Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show but I've had to substitute 'Georgia'. Somewhere along the way I missed taking Home Ec. sewing. It seems a lot harder to sew a straight 1/4" seam than I had thought it would be.

I should be cutting fabric but instead I'm writing this blog, airing my frustrations. My problem is loving the fabric patterns and the design problems and being totally unequipped for the execution phase. I have a huge amount of fabric and maybe 100 or more quilts I want to make but... I had about four months to finish 'Storm' but accomplished very little because my elements were not coming together well. Points don't match. Blocks don't conform to the pattern precisely. So...I stopped work. Now I am restarting the process but it's really hard work to get going on it. I need 81 completed 12" blocks and I have...three...and a half. I do have enough for one more block and I have 35 diamonds (19 are noted as 'Be Careful with Measurements') and 38 small triple-squares, all of which are suspiciously wrong compared to pattern. 


I'll get back later. Stop blogging. Start cutting. Good advice.